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Icon Vehicle Dynamics. Metal Tech 4x4. Military Surplus Gear. This was very much like installing the right one except the mounting holes were in different places. After the two brackets were set I placed the brushguard on top of the bumper and noticed that the template was not the correct size.
I then proceeded by using a pencil and marking out the holes on the bracket onto the paper. Then I drilled some small pilot holes using the smallest available drill bit I had and looked around the general area where I had marked with the pencil.
I found it on the second try for both sides. I then made a hole big enough to mount a bolt from underneath. I placed a washer on the bolt since I noticed that the bolt was too small for the bumper support bracket hole under the bumper and it would go through. Top view of grille and brushguard. Not much room to work with when tightening bolts. It was very hard to do so. This is what the nut looks like after tightening. I suggest that you put as much tape around the bottom of the grill guard prior to installing since I nicked mine with the bolt.
You must also put the bolt so that it sticks up just a little bit from the bumper in order to fit the brushguard in place.
It won't fit very easily if the bolt is sticking up all the way and almost impossible to do so. This actually took the longest!
Front view after installation and tightening. Nice painted blacked out covers and wires sticking out. Side view. Another front shot. Full frontal picture with all the wires tucked in behind.
Next will be to connect all the wires for the lights and somehow make the switch fit into the dashboard somewhere. I might just tuck the switch underneath the dash and use it when I need it for now until I can figure our a way to make it look nice on the dash.
Posted by Manuel at AM. Newer Post Older Post Home. Subscribe to: Post Comments Atom. Search This Blog. My Blog List. Final upgrades Orbea Euskaltel 7 years ago. Alpine Stereo - ida-X 11 years ago. Guys I am having a terrible time trying to get my FJ switch to work right. It has been a challenge to figure out to say the least This involved reversing the polarity of things due to the funky high beam wiring. Relay: Red main fused power to battery Red switched power to high beam circuit with piggy back fused line Negative Black to the actual driver high beam This with a simple switch accomplished what I wanted light bar comes on when high beam are on only.
Kill the high beams it kills the LED bar as well. But with a switch I can still turn the LED bar on and off separate when the high beams are on. This is the switch that has the indicated ON light as well.
I got the switch to work per reading all over the web Switch works like it should. Depending on what forum you are on they run the wire order as or as on here I will refer to the same order used in the post above to keep it simple. So pins 5 and 6 are for illumination for the back light Ran one to ground at cig outlet and ran the power 6 to the lighted switch near by. Pin 3 and 4 took some time to figure out but basically got that sorted as well.
Pin 1 and 2 however I can NOT figure out. To me the negative shouldn't matter it can go to any negative, right? The positive however has me stumped. If I run it to the line going out to the LED bar it just won't work right. For example the light just stays on IF the low beams are on. If the high beams are on it works like it should turning off and only comming on when you press it in. But as soon as I turn the high beams off the indicator light comes back on I know, I know.
This is VERY hard to follow without diagrams and pictures. I will try to get some to you guys. Only difference here is that I didn't splice the positive of the high beam I instead did what others recommended and tapped the high beam fuse for the positive.
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